Sunday 6 June 2010

to the black sea

leaving Ardahan (Zalachenko territory alledgedly but no Natashas in our room) we drove through the Georgian valleys on our way to Iskedere. Having left behind the wheat growing plains of the Tigris basin we entered more lush countryside with grazing cattle and beautiful flower meadows. A fabulous drive up until Cath decided she wanted to see some georgian churches and we took the road from Yusufeli to Ispir ....no wonder the local smirked when we asked the way. The road was either potholed at best non existent in some places and we had to ford a river at one point and I don't mean ford as in Kenilworth. It took us over three hours to do 90K and needless to say we were both shattered by the end of it ....Pete's driving skills were amazing and how he managed not to get the car stuck in the river I'll never know. Then of course there was nowhere to stay 'cos the hotels were presumably full of all the construction workers rebuilding the aforementioned road. Just about to leave town to find a camp in the hills we found a restaurant with rooms (and Idon't mean in the Guardian travel section way) Anyway it did us fine even though the bathroom door was half way up the wall !
Up the following morning at 5.30 (yes Cath as well) to set off over the pass to find blackcocks(no silliness please) Parked up and walked up a trail to the snow covered tops and eventually had a sighting of two females and on the way back down two males flew across the path. Pete was in 7th heaven and it cheered him up after the horrendous day before.
Had breakfast by the side of the road ...omlette and baked beans(I knew they'd come in handy) and apricots.
Drove on towards Trabzon and then took the road to Sumela monastery and found chalet/motel just near to the site. Up the next morning early to climb to the monastery ...fabulous place with amazing frescos in the rock church. Walked back down alongside the river in full flow and then had some relax time for the rest of the day.
Moved on from there along the coast road and found a campsite at Unye... Pete swam in the sea but cath just paddled due to black sand and jellyfish not sounding so inviting.
Left there this morning and the tea growing area gave way to hazelnut plantations. Have now arrived at Amasya and walked up to view the rock tombs and visit a good museum.
Spending the night here in one of the old ottoman buildings renovated to a hotel then on towards
the lakes around Kirsehir for more birding tomorrow.
I need someone to dig out the song of a Tengmalm's Owl as some bird in the middle of the night made more din than the road traffic and woke me up and I need to name the blighter!
Momentous day today we turned the map over and thus must be on the way back.

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